Sunday, June 24, 2012

Coming Home to a Strange New Land

Originally written for SISTERS Magazine (March issue).

Salamat Datang – welcome to Malaysia!

Humid air fragranced by overwhelmingly lush greenery greeted me as I stepped out of the Kuala Lumpur airport. I was beyond excited – this wasn’t just a regular touristy vacation; I was there to see my family for the first time since I’d gotten married and left Canada, my homeland, two years ago.

My family moved to Malaysia about a year after I had moved to Egypt with my husband, eliciting complex feelings on my part. Whenever I thought about seeing my family again, I’d always assumed that “going home” would mean returning to beautiful British Columbia. It was not to be! At first, I resented the idea of my family leaving the place I had always called home. How could I feel at home in a completely different country, with a culture that was completely foreign to me?

AlHamdulillaah, my arrival in Malaysia cured me of my misgivings. Within days of arriving, I was enthralled and enchanted by this jewel-toned land studded with masaajid and multi-ethnic markets.

Sugar, Spice, and Everything Nice!

Malaysia is truly one of the most fascinating Muslim countries in the world. It is a literal hodge-podge of colours, languages, ethnicities, cuisine, and so much more! It is home to ethnic Malays, Indians, and Chinese, and graciously hosts business people and expats from around the world. The flavour of Malaysian culture is difficult, if not impossible, to pinpoint: it draws upon its own historic legacy while welcoming all international contributions. However, one thing is for certain - Malaysia’s heart beats to the rhythm of Islam.

From halaal cuisine of every stripe, to the hijab-a-riffic baju kurung (traditional Malaysian women’s clothing; a long blouse over a skirt) sported by smiling local women, Islam is evident at every turn. Like the country itself, Malaysia’s Muslim culture is lush, vibrant, and welcoming.

Food plays a central role in Malaysian society. Whether by oneself or with a group, every meal offers an opportunity to experiment with different flavours or simply to enjoy culinary favourites. At every street corner, throughout every shopping center and in every home, one can find a dizzying array of cuisines, both “authentic” and contemporary fusions. The overwhelming combination of spices is enough to make your head spin!

Local markets offer classics such as satay and mutabbaq (an Arab-originated fried bread stuffed with ground meat and eggs), available 24/7. Of course, one hasn’t truly savoured Malaysian culture if they haven’t tried the world-famous roti chanai, a buttery, flaky Indian-style flatbread served with a curry or two in the traditional Malaysian style.

If you have a craving for more variety and a more up-scale seating arrangement than the tables and chairs on the sidewalk, you need never look far for one of the countless restaurants that boast food from every corner of the world. Asian, Mediterranean, Western, Indian, or Arab, you can find an establishment offering each and every dish you could possibly imagine (and many that you can’t!).

Infused with Islam

Beyond the scents and sights of Malaysia’s bustling city centers, one cannot help but notice the unique way that Islam is evidenced in the country.

Masaajid in Malaysia are open, airy affairs, letting in the bright sunshine and fresh breezes while you pray. Many masaajid have no physical barrier between the men and women, and salaah in Jamaa’ah is conducted truly Sunnah-style: with the men in the front, young children in the middle, and women behind. To see this Sunnah being observed, with absolutely no controversy and no free-mixing between the genders, was something very special to see.

Many neighbourhood masaajid will play beautiful Qiraa’ah of Qur’an over the loudspeakers, about fifteen minutes before the adhaan. I will never forget the amazing experience of walking in the park with my mother and my daughter, with Sheikh Mishary al-Afasy’s recitation in the background! In striking contrast to many Orientalist stereotypes, it made me smile to see Muslim women driving their families – including fathers, brothers, husbands and sons, to the masjid for salaah and Islamic classes. Entering the masjid, I smiled to see the women’s section filled with a sea of refreshing white khimaars (large prayer-clothes) for salaah – I was the sore thumb sticking out all in black!

After Salaatul Maghrib, the weekly Tafseer class began, with attendees young and old whipping out their notebooks and scribbling down diligent notes. Now these were true students of knowledge! Leaving the masjid, I realised that the class was broadcast over the loudspeakers for the members of surrounding homes who were unable to come to the masjid itself for the class. What a blessing to have knowledge delivered right to your ears, in the comfort of your own home!

These beautiful sights were not restricted to the masjid, however. At the numerous malls and markets, where I shopped, shopped, shopped ‘till I almost literally dropped, the adhaan would remind us to make our way to the nearest surau (musalla/ prayer place). It was heartening to see even un-hijaabed sisters, dressed in leggings and T-shirts, care a great deal about praying on time.

Passing a display of TV screens made me pause, stare, and laugh out loud: Malaysia’s film culture involves a lot of horror movies, and the one playing on the screen in front of me featured the heroine in a graveyard, menaced by ghastly ghouls and goblins. Her weapon of choice? Why, Aayatul Kursi, of course! Malaysian TV doesn’t only feature shivers and terrifying thrills; one particular children’s channel caught my eye with its daily show featuring an ustaaz and his young students, both boys and girls. Colourful and entertaining, each episode broadcasts the reading of Qur’an and an age-appropriate explanation of the verses’ meanings (tafseer). Not only were the children adorable, but their recitation was quite beautiful, masha’Allah!

While my memories of Malaysia are simply too many to recount, there was one very special moment that I will treasure forever: Going to the private women’s surau on the roof of Central Market, taking off my niqaab and hijab and feeling the breeze on my face and through my hair!

UmmKhadijah (AnonyMouse) spent an unforgettable month in Malaysia, reunited with her family and having a blast! She hopes to return soon, insha’Allah, although maybe after she’s made a few trips to the other countries on her travel list.


Hafsa Dean said...

Mousling MashaAllaah tabarakAllaah

Livin_life_and loving_it said...

ASA, How are you? Long time no talk to. Its been almost a year I think. Inshaallah Kuwait is still treating you well. I LOVED your piece. You made me feel like I want to run to Malaysia. Inshaallah I am going to go to Malaysia in a few weeks to spend part of Ramadan there. I would really like to get some information from you if you have the time.
I have wanted to go to Malaysia for a very long time. This is one of the places I have on my list for places to move and stay. I was very excited about my trip until I read several blogs and forums about blacks being treated badly. This scares me. I mean i read some resturants wont serve us and people have been called niggers to their face. I dont want to take my kids to a place like this. Its one thing to be hated in silence but when its in your face it can be a bit much. I would hate to spend a few thousand dollars to be treated horrible. Can you tell me your take on this subject.

Noor said...

your recount of Malaysia makes me want to go there. It's warming that the people there are colored into Islam in their walk of life. very inspiring. Mashallah. Thank you. :)

Abeer S. said...

Asalam Alaikum!

I stumbled across your blog and reading this made me so happy. :)
Malaysia was my home for three years! Whenever I read beautiful reviews like yours, I yearn to go back.

(I also loved how your article did not criticise all those things about Malaysia that people usually criticise.)

applepounce (Aifa Muhammad Radzi) said...

Sister, Alhamsulillah you loved our Malaysia. You actually came here :D Come visit again!

Anonymous said...

wonderful post! thank you for sharing!
i hope you get a chance to visit Turkey.
Another amazing place with modernity and traditional Islam at the same time; beauty and ihsaan in all they do.
YOu will like it.
mashaAllah you are a very enjoyable writer to read.
take care.